Assisi - a beautiful city in Umbria

So many people have raved about the city of Assisi, so famous for St Francis and St Clare, we had hoped it would live up to its reputation. Well, it certainly did!

After three different trains to get here from Rimini, we were relieved to be met at the station by our host, who yet again drove us to our accomodation and carried both our bags up the many many steps from where we left the car - firstly to the front door and then up the three flights of stairs to the apartment itself.

On the way we were halted for a few minutes as the roads were blocked, due to it being a special day in Assisi, according to our host. I hopped out of the car, to quickly grab some video of the medieval clad people in the square. How lucky was I!

Ours is a lovely little apartment, with a beautiful bedroom decorated more in a Parisian style, than Italian, which we loved of course. The second bed is a sofa bed, next to the Union Jack fridge!

We also have gorgeous views over the rooftops of those in our area.

Once settled I headed out for a short exploration of the area, including sussing out possible venues for dinner that didn’t involve too much walking or climbing for Jules.  Heading up the street it wasn’t long until I encountered a lot of commotion and found rows and rows of bleaches set up in the square. I didn’t know what was going on, but managed to work my way to the front where again I found more residents dressed in medieval attire.

Little did I know, but discovered later that night via Google, that it was the first day of the annual 3 day festival - Calendimaggio. (You can read more about it here - http://www.calendimaggiodiassisi.com/en/the-festival and here - http://www.montesubasio.it/en/assisi-calendimaggio/.

What a delight to be treated to such a spectacular, even if I didn’t understand the significance of it, it was wonderful to be surrounded by so many proud excited Umbrians recreating events of the past.  It appears that different regions of Assisi are represented by different colours - mainly red and blue. We are staying in the red region, represented by the many flags decorating the buildings and the scarves worn by those few residents not in the traditional garb.

Whilst I watched, listened and waited I was appreciating the stunning costumes worn by both the ladies and gents, and then the parade started. First the drummers - small and big -

then the colourful groups who processed into the arena, where the more regal looking participants gathered on the prepared seating. Choirs sung and poets performed (I think) all to the cheering of the crowds.

I managed to capture some video of different sections, to show to Jules, but this 12 minute video I think captures the best part.

I could have stayed for hours watching the festivities continue well into the night, which they will for the next three nights, but I wanted to at least see a bit of the town, knowing that the weather forecast was not great for the next day.

The coloured flags and beautiful colours of the plants adorning the properties really added to the beautiful scenery. I adored the houses and apartments, all hidden behind the huge traditional wooden doors, like ours.

The shops certainly differ from those we have seen in other Italian towns and villages - the focus for most of them is on St Francis and St Clare, which was a lovely change.

Of course there are hundreds of places to eat and windows of their offerings tempt passers by from the street.

Strolling around I managed to find my way fairly easily to the Bascillica of St Francis, which is a stunning structure on two levels - really like two churches in fact, and including the tomb of St Francis himself, which is housed in a beautiful area below the lower church.

(Unfortunately no photos inside are allowed, I discovered on my second visit, after my first photo evoked a bout of yelling “No photos, no photos!!”). 

Such a shame as the frescoes by Giotto are simply divine. I downloaded the app to hear all about them, which was very helpful.)

Heading further up the hill (avoiding the horse droppings from the horses involved in the day’s processions) I came across a lovely park area, which was of course deserted as it was getting late and everybody was down at the festivities.

Thankfully I found my way back to the apartment, even with a flat battery, and we headed out not long after for dinner.  I had found a lovely French looking cafe - Monnalisa, which had good vegetarian options, so we thought we’d try it, and what a find it was.

We were the only ones in the whole restaurant so received first class treatment form the waiter and the chef herself, who was so excited that we were from Australia and loved her food. I enjoyed a special of the day which was a basil and pine nut ravioli with a fresh tomoato sauce - everything made on site of course. Jules enjoyed an Umbrian speciality of pork meat with pasta.

After the pasta, still being the only customers, we felt obligated to try the tirmasu - traditional for Jules and lemon for me. I’m not a dessert eater normally, but it was amazing!!

Even after this, the waiter then brought us a treat of a chocolate tart (I didn’t dare tell him I’m allergic, so had to devour the flowers that decorated the plate - complete with a limoncello and strawberry centre. Yum!!!

It was so good, we actually visited for our second night as well.

 

Next morning I headed down to San Damiano, as I wanted to see this special site also.  It was quite a walk down in the light rain, and the winds turned my umbrella inside out a few times, so I was grateful to finally reach the place.

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The church built between VIIIth - IXth century on the ruins of an ancient edifice, was in a state of abandon when, invited by the crucifix: “Go Francis and repair my house, which as you see is falling into ruin”, Francis restored it in 1206. He predicted that this place would become the dwelling place of (St) Clare and the other sisters of San Damiano (poor Clares) who remained here until 1260. It was here that Francis wrote the Canticle of Creatures”, a hymn of thanksgiving to God revealing  Francis’ brotherly relationship with all creation.

Inside the church was quiet and the frescoes amazing

The Oratory of St Clare, which Clare had built, dedicated to the Holy Virgin was also stunning.

In the dormitory of St Clare you can view the spot where Clare and her sisters slept on humble straw mats, and where Clare died in 1253, and where she was visited two days before she died by Pope Inncent IV. The crucifix in here is from the 15th century.

The Cloister is absolutely beautiful - a haven of peace, and it was here that Clare even in an infirmed state confronted the troops of the saracens in 1240, who left struck by the force of her prayer. A similar event was apparently repeated in 1241, so the city of Assisi continues to celebrate the liberating event of Clare with a festival every June 22nd.

The walk back up the hill was less than pleasant with the rain and wind unforgiving, so I arrived back at the apartment wet and soggy, before grabbing a quick lunch.

 

There were plenty of other churches to visit in Assisi - all so beautiful, adorned with frescoes and artwork that could easily be featured in galleries around the world.